after wheaten bread ....; had not the Russian corn crops failed last season there is no saying what
would have been the price of grain.'

On the 24th of May he set off for Elsinore, where he makes the following entry in
his Diary, shewing how much he had yet to learn in Northern philology:

' Helsing-oër from the corner of land being in the shape of an ear; thus, formerly the Sound
was called Ore-sund.'

Thence he crossed to Helsingborg in twenty-six minutes, and, landing in Sweden,
at once fell into the agonies of their paper money:

'Got 100 dollar note, about &S, changed into smaller money, for which I got a bundle of
shabby rags fitter in bulk to put under one's arm than into one's pocket.'

The cheapness of Swedish posting was, however, much to his mind, and with
great courage he made his way to Stockholm posting, though quite ignorant of the
language, and finding no one who could speak German. At Vexiö he stopped to
respond to the invitation of Tegner, the great Swedish poet, whom he had met at
Carlsbad the year before, and who had warmly besought him to visit him at his
episcopal residence ; but to his disappointment he adds,

' I found him so depressed in spirits and suffering in body that he seemed to have forgotten
all his promises about Schelling's philosophy, etc., complained of being too unwell to attend the
Diet at Stockholm, where he ought to have been, and let me leave Vexiö without paying me any
other attention than giving me a cup of coffee and giving me one of the teachers of the gymnasium
as an interpreter.'

At Stockholm Cleasby arrived on this his first visit on the 3Oth of May, and was
much struck, as every one must be, with the beauty of the city and its lovely ' Djur-
gård/ "or park. After making several acquaintances, whom after intimacy ripened into
friends, he left on the 8th for Upsala, and admired the quaint old wooden town, the
grand cathedral, and the library. In it was contained the great object of his admira-
tion, the Gothic Gospels of Ulphilas, with which he was to be better acquainted in
later years. In this his first visit he remarks that Professor Schröder, the chief
librarian, though he received him with remarkable civility and attention, could not
conceal his anxiety when his visitor took the Codex Argenteus in his hand. On this
occasion there was no question of a collation of the manuscript. In fact, it appears
from sundry entries in the Diary as to linseed, rape, corn, etc., that this Northern visit
of Cleasby was as much commercial as literary. After visiting the iron districts, Cleasby
returned to Stockholm and crossed the country to Norway, starting from Stockholm on
the 18th of June, and reaching the Norwegian capital on the 23rd, and finding, as he
crossed the frontier, how very much dearer posting was in the one country than in the
other. After seeing a little of the country round Christiania, Cleasby went by steamer
to Göttenburg, which he reached on the ist of July, and having made some commercial
enquiries, and seen a little of the neighbourhood, he returned to Copenhagen on the
loth of that month. Here he notes :

'After seeing the other Northern capitals I was.struck with surprise at seeing Copenhagen
again, which has all the solidity and traffic and shop conveniences of the largest German capitals,
and is, I think, more varied and picturesque than most of them.'