On the 8th he was at Berlin, struck more than ever with its imposing appearance—
' Munich is quite a village to it/ His friend Raumer was in Italy, but he saw Graff,
and found him, ' as usual, complaining, but he brightened up when I talked of con-
.sulting him as to some passages in Ottfried's Christ.' Then follows the discussion,
at the end of which Graff remarked that the passages were the more difficult because
they were nearly all of them åirag Xeyó/íei/a. On the i2th he reached Hamburg, and,
after seeing Lappenberg, went on slowly to Copenhagen, lingering in Schleswig and
Jutland more than a month, and accurately observing the dialects and the people.
On the 4th of May he reached the Danish capital, and called on his friends. On
the 6th he went with Professor Thiele to the Museum of Sculpture and saw Thor-
walclsen, who had been absent in Italy on his former visits:

'Among the sculptures there is his own bust, by himself, some twenty years younger, a
magnificent countenance. On expressing my strong desire to see him, Thiele was so kind as
to go in to him and announce me, though he had let his servant know he was not very well
this morning; and I believe I should not have seen him but for my being able to speak Danish,
for immediately on my going in he received me most cordially, and his first words were,
" Jcg Jiorer at dc talcr Dansk." I passed about three-quarters of an hour with him alone, and I
never recollect having more enjoyment in the same time. There is earnestness and great depth
of expression in his countenance, with great placidness and serenity. He talked little, but moved
slowly about in his silk dressing-gown, letting fall every now and then a remark either voluntarily
or in answer to some observation of mine upon a picture or a piece of sculpture. He seemed,
as far as I could judge, to be very favourably impressed as to England, and dwelt especially
upon the merits of one or two pictures he has, painted by Englishmen. . . . He said he wished
to see England, but feared, from the great number of very kind friends he had there, he should
be detained too long, and his years reminded him that his time was growing short. I saw
in his studio numerous works, partly now in execution, especially reliefs of the " Triumph of
Alexander," and a colossal and most noble figure, just modelled, representing Ocean, which is to
form part of a group. ... I left him with the impression of having been in the company of a
great man. There is something half sacred about his still, pensive manner, with his white hair
and figure a little bent forward.'

Cleasby had now made up his mind more clearly as to his Northern journey. On
the same day he wrote to his father that he was going first to Stockholm, and then to
Upsala, to stay there fourteen days. After that he should go to Petersburg, by way
of Riga and Reval. On the yth of May he left Copenhagen by steamer for Malmoe in
Scania. From Malmoe he posted in his carriage to Calmar, and thence to Stockholm,
which he reached on the loth. Cleasby was now better fitted to enjoy Sweden than on
his former visit in 1834. He knew the language, and had letters to many literary men
from his friends in Copenhagen. Dr. Hildebrand, the archivarius and great Anglo-Saxon
numismatist, took him to the Library, and put him in the way of obtaining some facsimiles
and transcripts from Icelandic Sagas of the Romance cycle for Lady Charlotte Guest.
Having put this in train, Cleasby turned to the main object of his visit—the inspection
and collation of the Codex Argenteus at Upsala. He was fortunate in finding his friend
Dr. Reuterdahl, of Lund, in Stockholm, who gave him a letter to the chief librarian
Schröder, a man who was known, for his difficulty of access, by the nickname of ' Inga-
lunda;' ' Certainly not,' or ' Not by any means,' that being the word with which he usually